Cheating on freshness: why top restaurants are having an affair with green oil

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At many restaurant job trials the basic test is no longer an omelette: its extracting colour from herbs.

And now, along with the velouté and the hollandaise its practical a modern ‘mother sauce’. Wild garlic mayonaise - etc.

It passes two major tests. A number of spin-off recipes that use it as a base. And vehement disagreement between different chefs about how to make it.

In the best restaurants, it may be used to add a hint of pure dill flavour to a fish starter. But in most restaurants, it has all the charm of salad on the burger king walls.

There are some who claim its a great way to use up old herbs. But in reality, the herbs are compostable, and the refined oil used is far more costly to the planet .

80c spin

vs

blanc and cold